Ceiling installation
(1) According to the design drawings, mark the ceiling’s horizontal elevation line, the layout lines for the keel framework, and the suspension points for the hangers. The ceiling’s horizontal elevation line should be marked on the wall surface, while the keel and hanger position lines should be marked on the floor slab. The marking lines must be clear and accurate. Secure the sealing materials, fix the hangers, and install the connecting components.
(2) Keel installation:
a. According to the established elevation control lines, install the keel onto the suspension hangers on the suspension rods and tighten the screws on the suspension fittings to secure the keel in place.
b. The secondary keel shall be installed perpendicular to the main keel. At the intersection of the main and secondary keels, use secondary keel suspension clips to secure the secondary keel to the main keel. The U-shaped legs of the suspension clips should be bent inward into the main keel using pliers. Secondary keel connections shall also be made using plug-in connectors, with a maximum misalignment tolerance of 2 mm. The spacing between secondary keels shall be 600 mm.
c. Installation of cross-brace keel: The spacing between installed cross-brace keels is 600 mm. During installation, insert the ends of the cross-brace keels into the hanging connectors, secure them onto the secondary keels, and use pliers to bend the hooks inward into the secondary keels. After assembly, the gap at the joint between the cross-brace keel and the secondary keel should not exceed 2 mm, and the bottom surfaces must remain on the same plane.
d. The installation of the keel framework should proceed from one end of the room to the other. If there are sections with different ceiling heights, first install the higher section and then the lower section. For areas such as inspection openings (400×400 mm or as otherwise specified), leave the exact dimensions and locations unoccupied during keel installation. Around the opening, add edge-support keels and finish the edges with solid wood strips, then apply white paint. At inspection openings, additional suspension rods should be installed for the main keel. General lightweight lighting fixtures in the suspended ceiling can be fixed to the secondary keels or cross-bracing keels; however, heavy-duty lighting fixtures must have new suspension rods installed according to design requirements and must not be directly attached to the keels.
(3) Installation of JET Calcium Silicate Boards: Before installing the JET Calcium Silicate Boards, all keel supports have been adjusted and aligned; electrical and plumbing conduits within the suspended ceiling have also been fully installed. The JET Calcium Silicate Boards are installed starting from one end of the ceiling, with each board laid out in a staggered pattern, and any excess material is reserved for final installation. A gap of approximately 3 mm should be left between the JET Calcium Silicate Boards and the walls. The longer edges of the JET Calcium Silicate Boards should intersect perpendicularly with the secondary keels, ensuring that the board edges accurately rest on the sub-keels. The overlap width between adjacent JET Calcium Silicate Boards resting on the same sub-keel should be roughly equal, and a gap of about 3 mm should be maintained between the boards. After filling the gaps with putty, apply matching perforated paper tape over the seams. The JET Calcium Silicate Boards must be fixed under stress-free conditions, proceeding from one end to the other. Use flat-head self-tapping screws for fastening; the distance between self-tapping screws and the edge of the sub-keel should be no less than 3 mm. For JET Calcium Silicate Boards with face paper edging, the screw spacing from the board edge should ideally be between 10 and 15 mm; for cut boards, the ideal screw spacing is between 15 and 20 mm. The spacing between self-tapping screws should be controlled within the range of 150 to 170 mm, and the screws must be inserted perpendicular to the board surface, with their heads fully embedded into the board. When fixing two adjacent JET Calcium Silicate Boards, ensure that the screw positions are staggered by at least 50 mm. After installation of the JET Calcium Silicate Boards is complete, treat the screws with an anti-rust coating.
(4) Ceiling puttying, leveling, and sanding: Apply three coats of putty evenly. Only after verifying that the surface is smooth and meets the design and code requirements can latex paint be applied.
(5) Apply latex paint: Apply three coats of latex paint, ensuring that the surface is free from cracks, blisters, and brush marks. Use a 2-meter straightedge to check the surface; any unevenness should not exceed 1 mm.

Wall-mounted installation
1) Process Flow: 1. Layout the light partition walls → Install door frame openings → Install top and bottom guide rails → Divide vertical studs into equal intervals → Install vertical studs → Install horizontal cross-members to secure the studs → Install the first layer of JET calcium silicate boards → Install the second layer of JET calcium silicate boards → Implement joint treatment procedures → Perform finishing layer construction
2) Lay out the lines according to the design construction drawings and install the door frame.
3) Install the top and bottom furring strips: According to the previously marked partition wall positioning lines, install the top and bottom furring strips along these lines. Secure them to the main structure using nail guns, with nail spacing of 600 mm.
4) Vertical Stud Spacing: Based on the wall layout and the positions of door openings, after installing the top and bottom studs, divide the space according to the ceiling panel specifications—either 900 mm or 1200 mm in width—with a standard spacing of 450 mm. For any spacing that does not match the module size exactly, avoid placing the first ceiling panel directly adjacent to the door frame’s edge, ensuring that the cut edges of the fiber-cement boards do not abut against the door frame.
5) Install the furring strips: Install the vertical furring strips according to the marked spacing. Insert the upper and lower ends of the vertical furring strips into the top furring strip and the floor furring strip, respectively. After adjusting for verticality and accurate positioning, secure them with blind rivets. Along walls and column edges, use nail guns or wood screws to fasten the furring strips to the walls and columns, with nail spacing set at 1000 mm.
6) Install horizontal blocking keels: According to design requirements, when the partition wall height exceeds 3 meters, horizontal blocking keels shall be added and fixed using countersunk rivets or bolts.
7) Installing JET Calcium Silicate Boards: Check the quality of the furring installation, ensure that door openings and frame structures meet design and construction requirements, and verify that the spacing between furring members conforms to the modulus corresponding to the width of the JET Calcium Silicate boards. Begin installing the JET Calcium Silicate boards on one side, starting from the doorway; for walls without door openings, start from one end of the wall. Typically, JET Calcium Silicate boards are fixed using self-tapping screws. The screw spacing along the board edges should be 200 mm, while the spacing between screws in the middle of the board should be 300 mm. The distance between each screw and the edge of the JET Calcium Silicate board must be no less than 10 mm and no more than 16 mm. When using self-tapping screws, the JET Calcium Silicate boards must be tightly pressed against the furring members. Install electrical conduits, junction boxes, and electrical panels within the wall cavity. Simultaneously install fire-retardant, sound-insulating, and moisture-resistant filling materials inside the wall, inserting them at the same time as the other side’s JET Calcium Silicate board (cement pressure board). Install the JET Calcium Silicate board on the opposite side of the wall: Use the same installation method as for the first side, ensuring that the joints of the second side board are staggered relative to those on the first side. For double-layer JET Calcium Silicate board installations: The fixing method for the second layer is identical to that of the first layer; however, the joints of the third layer must be staggered relative to those of the first layer, and must not align with the joints of the first layer on the same furring member.
8) Joint Treatment Methods: There are three types of joint treatments for Jet calcium silicate boards: flush joints, recessed joints, and joint strips. The procedure is as follows: Apply Filling Putty: Before applying the filling putty, thoroughly remove any loose debris from the joint. Use a small spatula to carefully embed the putty into the joint, ensuring it is fully filled and smoothly leveled with the surface of the board. Attach Tension Strips: Once the filling putty has set and regained its original shape, immediately apply the tensioning material. First, thinly spread a layer of slightly thinner, paste-like putty onto the joint, about 1 mm thick and as wide as the tension strip. Then, firmly press the tension strip onto the joint using a medium-sized spatula, working from top to bottom to smooth and compact it, and carefully remove any air bubbles trapped between the adhesive putty and the tension strip. Apply Middle Layer Putty: Immediately after attaching the tension strip, apply another middle-layer putty on top, about 80 mm wider than the tension strip and approximately 1 mm thick, so that the tension strip becomes completely embedded in this layer. Finish with Leveling Putty: Finally, use a large spatula to fill any wedge-shaped gaps and level the surface evenly with the surrounding board.
9) Wall decoration: Jet calcium silicate boards for wall surfaces can be finished in various ways according to design requirements.

Keel Fixed Installation Method
Installation Steps
1. Check whether the wall to be installed is smooth and remove any obstacles from the wall surface.
2. Identify the horizontal reference line for the wall to be installed, and mark lines on all four sides of the wall to be installed in preparation for installing the furring strips.
3. Install and secure the furring strips. You can use either 50# light steel furring strips or 2.5 x 3 cm wooden battens. Fix the furring strips vertically to the wall at 60-cm intervals; fasteners can be steel nails or expansion screws. If using wooden furring strips, ensure they are made of防腐-treated wood or have undergone防腐 treatment with防腐液 or asphalt. Reinforcing furring strips must be installed around doorways and windows.

4. Begin installation by attaching the first layer of hanging panels (bottom panels) to the furring strips using nail guns or 3.5-centimeter-long self-tapping screws. Note: If using self-tapping screws, pre-drill holes with a twist drill, and countersink the screw heads flush with the surface of the JET exterior wood-grain hanging panels by 0.5–1 millimeter. Treat the screw head locations with an anti-corrosion agent and smooth them out with exterior wall putty. The distance between screw holes on the panel and the top edge of the panel should be no less than 1.2 centimeters; ideally, maintain a uniform distance of 1.5 centimeters. Also, ensure that the screw holes are located 2 centimeters from each end of the panel.

5. Install the second Jet exterior wall panel using the same fixing method, adopting an overlapping installation technique (with a 2.5-centimeter overlap between the top and bottom panels). Continue installing the remaining panels in a similar manner. Note that when the wall width exceeds the length of a single panel, the joints of two panels on the same horizontal line must be positioned directly over the furring strips and must not be left unsupported.

6. For Jet exterior wood-grain panels, maintain a 3–5 mm joint gap at horizontal interfaces. After the panels have been securely fixed according to requirements, use a paintable polyurethane adhesive (PU25) or tile adhesive to fill and seal the joints. At the point where one end of a panel connects to an internal or external corner, the panels should naturally abut each other, leaving a suitable gap that is then sealed with adhesive or tile adhesive. After installing the last panel at the top, also seal the joint between the panel and the top eaves with adhesive or tile adhesive to ensure waterproofing.

7. When installing Jet exterior wood-grain panels at door and window locations, the panels should be cut to match the shapes of the door and window frames, ensuring precise alignment. Avoid creating continuous gaps; instead, apply silicone sealant or tile adhesive at the joints to prevent leaks caused by such gaps.
8. At the junctions between adjacent wall surfaces (i.e., internal and external corners), JET exterior wood-grain panels must be properly finished. Common finishing methods include 45-degree chamfered joints and the use of specialized corner guards. For internal corners, simply fix two adjacent panels at a 90-degree angle to each other at the same horizontal level, and then apply sealant along the joint to ensure a tight seal.
9. After the Jet exterior wood-grain panels have been installed, use a clean brush or towel to wipe away any dust, powder, or oil stains from the panel surfaces before applying the paint. Acrylic exterior paint is recommended; apply one coat as a primer and two additional coats on the surface of the panels.

Direct wall-mounting method
1. Ensure the entire building is level.
2. Draw the horizontal line and proceed with board layout.
3. After the positioning lines for each board have been marked, install the Jet exterior wood-grain hanging panels.
4. To begin installation, first hold up a Jet exterior wood-grain panel and align it with the wall. Mark the precise locations, then carefully cut the angles. Next, fit the panels together at the corners, making sure to cut the sharp corners at a 45-degree angle.
5. Once the sharp corners are properly finished, you can proceed with installation. First, secure the boards using steel strip nails, then drive in expansion nails.
6. Exposed nails, steel spike heads, and joints sealed with paint should be repaired and thoroughly cleaned for hygiene purposes.
Precautions:
When installing Jet exterior wood-grain hanging panels, please pay attention to the following points:
1. The width of each board is 20 centimeters. When laying out the boards, be careful not to press them too closely together—this will make the layout look unsightly. Generally speaking, a spacing of 17 to 18 centimeters works best. Next, use a chalk line to mark out the exact spacing between the boards and proceed with the layout.
2. After the positioning lines for each board have been marked, it’s essential to plan the color, dimensions, length, and quantity of wood-grain boards for the entire floor level, facilitating the procurement of subsequent materials. Since the length of the exterior wall wood-grain boards is 3 meters, during cutting, you can mix longer and shorter pieces to minimize unnecessary joints and avoid wasteful use of materials.
3. When nailing, first use strip nails to secure the wood-grain panel, and then drive in expansion nails. Always drill a hole before inserting expansion nails. Sometimes, after installing the panels, gaps may appear at the corners—this is often due to unevenness in the wall surface. In such cases, you can use steel nails to securely lock the joints.
4. Use a small brush and a roller when touching up paint.
5. Regarding the issue of exterior wall panel contamination, the best approach is to complete all other work on this building before proceeding with the installation of wood-grain hanging panels.
Maintenance of Jet Fiber Cement Exterior Wood-Grain Panels
Unlike other wall panels, JET exterior wood-grain wall panels are extremely economical and easy to maintain. When a panel on the wall is damaged or cracked due to external factors, simply cut out the damaged section and replace it with an identical-sized JET exterior wood-grain panel—there’s no need for extensive replacement work.

Exterior Wall Scraper Floor Installation Steps
(1) Mark a horizontal line on the wall surface, and apply the first coat of rust-preventive paint to the steel.
(2) Cut grooves in the wall and fix channel steel.
1) A groove approximately 2 centimeters deep was cut along the horizontal line of the wall.
The leveling plaster coating on the wall was removed, exposing the reinforced concrete directly.
2) After removing the softer layers, the steel structure of the attic can be directly connected to the reinforced concrete of the main beams.
As a result, the entire steel structure has a stronger point of contact on the wall.
3) The width of the groove is the same as the width of the channel steel structure. The channel steel will be embedded within this groove.
Then, use bolts to firmly secure it into the solid wall and weld it in place. In this way, the channel steel becomes tightly connected to the reinforced concrete wall, forming a single, integrated unit.
In this structural layer, the forces exerted by its own weight and the weight of the flooring materials as well as human and object loads can be transmitted to the walls via channel steel. Moreover, unlike conventional attic construction methods,
In this way, the wall is subjected to force not at a single point, but across an entire surface, greatly increasing the safety factor.
4) Moreover, the bolts must be densely distributed; only then can the structure achieve a high level of safety. Of course, this also significantly increases the construction difficulty.
(3) Since both the I-steel and channel steel used for the main beam are No. 12, it is necessary to remove the upper and lower flanges from both ends of the I-steel and then take advantage of the special shape of the channel steel.
Insert the I-beams into the channel steel at both ends and weld them securely in place. The spacing between each I-beam main beam should be approximately 60 cm.
(4) Weld the angle steel auxiliary beams, and then apply another coat of paint. Use the welded angle steel to connect each main beam together again, and the entire structure will take shape. The spacing between the auxiliary beams is also 60 cm.
(5) Install Sanle fiber cement boards. Before laying the Sanle fiber cement boards, it is essential to grind the weld seams on the surface smooth and thoroughly remove any welding spatter.
The longitudinal direction of the Sanle fiber cement board shall be parallel to the main beam. No edge of the board shall be left unsupported. A gap of 3–5 mm must be maintained between adjacent boards.
The joints between the boards should be located at the center of the beam.
(6) Nail-embedding requirements: Use self-tapping screws. The length of the self-tapping screws should be 55–60 mm (which can be adjusted independently based on the thickness of the board and the type of steel used).
First drill the holes, then drive in the nails. The diameter of the drilled holes should be larger than the diameter of the nail heads, and the nail heads must not protrude from the surface of the board. Start driving the nails from the center of the board, working outward, and finish by driving the nails along the edges.
The placement of edge nails should be approximately 20 mm from the edge of the board. Nail spacing: The spacing between center nails should be around 600 mm, and the spacing between edge nails should be around 300 mm.
Nailing should begin after the entire floor plan has been laid out (with the overall layout and gaps properly adjusted).
(7) Joint treatment: When laying the boards, a 3-5 mm gap must be left between boards and between boards and walls (this gap can be slightly reduced if wooden flooring is being installed).
The joints can be sealed with silicone sealant or filled with elastic putty.