The Jet exterior wall back-bolt dry-hanging system primarily consists of Baitite panels and dry-hanging accessories, and is mainly used for exterior wall decoration in buildings. It boasts advantages such as short construction periods, a stylish and clean appearance, personalized design, environmental friendliness, durability, and absolute fire resistance.

Installation Steps
(1) Cleaning work: Clean the work site and the working surface; remove dust and oil stains from wall surfaces, ensuring they remain clean and tidy.
(2) Use string lines and mark out positions according to the requirements of the design drawings to determine the locations of hot-dip galvanized angle brackets on the side walls.
(3) Pre-arrange the openings and doors for equipment cabinets.
(4) To install the hot-dip galvanized corner brackets, drill holes in the side walls according to the positions marked by the guideline. Then, securely fasten the hot-dip galvanized corner brackets to the side walls using stainless steel expansion screws.
(5) The L-shaped aluminum alloy keel is installed by securing it to hot-dip galvanized corner brackets using stainless steel bolts.
(6) At the internal and external corners of the keel framework, a long L-shaped aluminum corner piece is fixed to two keel members using rivets, thereby enhancing the overall stability of the keel system.
(7) The back-mounted fittings are secured to the upper and lower fittings using back-bolt screws.
(8) To install the Baiteshi panels, lift the entire Baiteshi panel sideways, ensuring that the lower hanger is precisely positioned on the L-shaped aluminum alloy keel, and the upper hanger is precisely positioned on the L-shaped aluminum alloy keel above it. Then, place the lower hanger on the second L-shaped aluminum alloy keel, while the upper hanger remains precisely on the L-shaped aluminum alloy keel.
(9) For gap treatment, fill the seams between the already installed panels with 3mm sealant.
(10) For the subsequent installation of Beishite panels, refer to the installation procedures outlined above and leave a 3mm gap, which should then be filled with sealant. Refer to the detailed construction drawings for the treatment of top joints, floor joints, internal and external corners, and equipment connections of the Beishite panels.
(11) Perform a thorough self-inspection and cleaning of the installed Beishite panels to ensure that no damage has occurred. After completion of all construction work, remove the protective film from the surface of the Beishite panels, clean up the site, and proceed with acceptance inspection.

Floor Slab Installation Steps

(1) Mark a horizontal line on the wall surface, and apply the first coat of rust-preventive paint to the steel.
(2) Cut grooves in the wall and fix channel steel.
1) A groove approximately 2 centimeters deep was cut along the horizontal line of the wall.
The leveling plaster coating on the wall was removed, exposing the reinforced concrete directly.
2) After removing the softer layers, the steel structure of the attic can be directly connected to the reinforced concrete of the main beams.
As a result, the entire steel structure has a stronger point of contact on the wall.
3) The width of the groove is the same as the width of the channel steel structure. The channel steel will be embedded within this groove.
Then, use bolts to firmly secure it into the solid wall and weld it in place. In this way, the channel steel becomes tightly connected to the reinforced concrete wall, forming a single, integrated unit.
In this structural layer, the forces exerted by its own weight and the weight of the flooring materials as well as human and object loads can be transmitted to the walls via channel steel. Moreover, unlike conventional attic construction methods,
In this way, the wall is subjected to force not at a single point, but across an entire surface, greatly increasing the safety factor.
4) Moreover, the bolts must be densely distributed; only then can the structure achieve a high level of safety. Of course, this also significantly increases the construction difficulty.
(3) Since both the I-steel and channel steel used for the main beam are No. 12, it is necessary to remove the upper and lower flanges from both ends of the I-steel and then take advantage of the special shape of the channel steel.
Insert the I-beams into the channel steel at both ends and weld them securely in place. The spacing between each I-beam main beam should be approximately 60 cm.
(4) Weld the angle steel auxiliary beams, and then apply another coat of paint. Use the welded angle steel to connect each main beam together again, and the entire structure will take shape. The spacing between the auxiliary beams is also 60 cm.
(5) Installing Sanle Fiber Cement Boards: Before laying the Sanle fiber cement boards, it is essential to grind down and smooth any weld seams on the surface and thoroughly remove any welding spatter.
The longitudinal direction of the Sanle fiber cement board shall be parallel to the main beam. No edge of the board shall be left unsupported. A gap of 3–5 mm must be maintained between adjacent boards.
The joints between the boards should be located at the center of the beam.
(6) Nail-tying requirements: Use self-tapping screws. The length of the self-tapping screws should be 55–60 mm (which can be adjusted independently based on the thickness of the board and the type of steel used).
First drill the holes, then drive in the nails. The diameter of the drilled holes should be larger than the diameter of the nail heads, and the nail heads must not protrude from the surface of the board. Start driving the nails from the center of the board, working outward, and finish by driving the nails along the edges.
The placement of edge nails should be approximately 20 mm from the edge of the board. Nail spacing: The spacing between center nails should be around 600 mm, and the spacing between edge nails should be around 300 mm.
Nailing should begin after the entire floor plan has been laid out (with the overall layout and gaps properly adjusted).
(7) Joint treatment: When laying the boards, a 3-5 mm gap must be left between boards and between boards and walls (this gap can be slightly reduced if wooden flooring is being installed).
The joints can be sealed with silicone sealant or filled with elastic putty.